If acne is something you struggle with, then pore-clogging ingredients are something you need to pay attention to.

I know, I know, lots of products out there say “Non-Comedogenic” … but those labels literally don’t mean anything (no one checks these claims, and brands can decide what they think is comedogenic or not).

So – you have acne and want to make sure your skincare and makeup isn’t contributing to it?!?! This is what you need to know.

#1. The most important products to check for pore-clogging ingredients are your makeup, your sunscreen and your self-tanner (if you’re using one). These products are meant to sit ON TOP OF your skin, not help change or increase the health of your skin.

I mostly like to use this website when I’m checking products for pore-clogging ingredients. Now, after checking this – I wouldn’t go throw out everything that contains any of the ingredients. The total formula and how the product is made is more important than ONE potentially pore-clogging being in the formula. What’s more concerning is if the pore-clogging ingredient is in the top 3-5 ingredients.

#2. Silicones: Although not technically pore-clogging, silicones can have an effect on your skin microbiome – the trillions of bacteria and funghi that live on your skin and help to keep it healthy and balanced. Most people who have an inflammatory skin condition have been shown to ALSO have an imbalance in the skin microbiome – but no one knows which comes first – the skin condition or the microbiome imbalance. Silicones can act like saran wrap on your skin – limiting how your skin functions.

Furthermore, over time, silicones (and mineral oils) can work their way into your skin, filling in spaces it shouldn’t be filling – preventing it from functioning the way it should by training your skin to under-produce the lipids and sebum it needs to be healthy. This can become problematic over time.

Tea Spilling Time: Do you guys want to know what products I often take out of my clients’ skin care routines because they’re contributing to their acne!?!?

• Drunk Elephant B-Hydra Serum: Coconut Alkanes – I wouldn’t panic over this ingredient except for the fact that it is second in the list. I’ve literally seen skin clear up when removing this product.
• Supergoop Sunscreens: Not technically bad but they’re all silicone cocktails – in this day and age, we can do better than silicone cocktails.
• Isle of Paradise Tanning Drops: Made with Coconut Oil (whyyyy).
• Summer Fridays Skin Tint: I’ve had several clients who were NOT acne-prone break out when they started using this – the second ingredient is a palm oil derivative that can be comedogenic.

#3. Professional/Good Quality Skincare: You will sometimes see pore-clogging ingredients in professional and great quality skincare products. I wouldn’t worry TOO much about those as these products are made to create change in your skin. For example, the Dermaviduals Suusmoon Lotion N is a WONDER for dry, acne-prone skin, yet it contains coconut oil! Professional skincare can be processed differently, rendering the typically pore-clogging offenders harmless. I’ve seen this product change and clear so many of my clients’ dry & acne prone skin.

(This is a picture of an excerpt from the Dermaviduals Handbook regarding it’s manufacturing process)

I would be more concerned about pore-clogging ingredients in natural and small brand skincare and makeup, as well as skincare from Sephora (Sephora doesn’t care about your skin health! #sorrynotsorry).

#4. One Last Note: Some brands are very vocal about avoiding all comedogenic ingredient in every product ever. Comedogenicity is typically measured on rabbit’s ears (which is not the same as human skin) or with an application of a single ingredient and some type of occlusive covering on back skin (which is not representative of how those ingredients would perform on skin mixed in a product, in the wild). As with everything almost always – there’s nuance to comedogenicity.

This information is not meant to scare you into checking everything, stressing out about ingredients and throwing out everything you own that could potentially be pore-clogging. Some of your products will have ingredients that can be pore-clogging and yet won’t affect YOUR skin: did you just start using a new makeup AND you’re breaking out?!? Are you using a coconut oil based moisturizer your neighbour made in their backyard and your skin ISN’t breaking out? (I mean it probably is but you get the point I’m trying to make).

What matters is paying attention to YOUR skin and your instincts, and if you’re feeling lost or not getting anywhere on your own, then come get advice from a professional (like me). When you’re coming to see me to help with your skin – my job is to figure this out with you – I ask a million questions about what is going on your skin, your lifestyle, how your skin feels (and much more) and then I can show you what’s best for your skin health and create a plan to help get your skin clear and happy. The rest is up to you.

As always, what’s most important is that YOU pay attention to YOUR skin, what it’s telling you and what feels right for you.

Let me know if you have any questions or comments about this!!! I’d love to hear from you!

xox

Isabelle